Wadjemup (Rottnest Island)

Many a brochure explains why this little island was named "Rottnest", but few explain the Aboriginal name Wadjemup.

Origin of Aboriginal name

It has been suggested to have the meaning "place across the water" and one can understand this name as the island had been connected to the mainland 30,000 years ago. Aboriginal remains date from then. There are some sites on Wadjemup which have a special significance to the Aboriginals - not very surprisingly, a sad one.

"The island was believed to be a home of spirits among the local Noongar communities. When the Europeans settled in Western Australia, however, Wadjemup acquired a very different significance," says a leaflet by the Island Authority; however, another leaflet by the same office tells of "a fascinating history as an Aboriginal penal settlement"... To my mind, it's sad, but not fascinating.

Prison history

Originally Aboriginal people were imprisoned in the Round House in Fremantle. When this jail became too small during the 1830s a new location was sought. Rottnest Island was thought suitable because it was separated from the mainland which made escapes not easy.

Beginning in 1838, Aboriginal prisoners were sent to Rottnest Island and "assisted" (Round House leaflet vocabulary) in the building of a prison complex. In fact, most of the historical buildings on Wadjemup which you see today have been built by Aboriginal labour. The impressive sea wall alone, which you see upon your arrival, took them three to eight years to complete (sources vary).

Before a woman set foot on Rottnest Island she had to do a smoking ceremony which is linked to the many men who died on this island. However, details cannot be provided as this is women's business and you might be a male reader.

Men of many different tribes had been brought to Rottnest Island prison which resulted in tensions. But many died simply because they were parted from their land, which has a much, much higher significance to Aboriginal people than to whitefellas. The prison, built by Aboriginal labour, was so overcrowded at times that prisoners who were far from the openings through which guards handed the meals, starved.

Significant Aboriginal sites

Boatshed

There is a cell on the side of the boatshed which is located on beach-level. It was added to the shed "to facilitate the movement of prisoners to the mainland". This site is still known to a lot of Aboriginals.

Cottages

Cottages F and G (see town map of the settlement). I was told by Aboriginal people that the upper storey has been used as a lock-up for Aboriginals as well. Two small windows can be seen there.

Aboriginal cemetery

The main site surely is the Aboriginal cemetery. I have a Rottnest Island map by the Department of Land Administration, Perth, which dates from 1988 (first edition). Why is this important? Because on this map, the Aboriginal cemetery simply doesn't exist! The map shows a road where currently the area is fenced off and a sign calls for respect for the cemetery. From 1903 (when the prison was officially closed) to 1984 the cemetery remained unacknowledged! The December 1999 "Welcome to Rottnest Island" brochure shows no "main roads" in that area any more.

The Quod

The Quod (or "quad"), an octagonal prison, nowadays ironically serves as an accommodation. Most Aboriginals died here of diseases which took a "terrible toll". Between the years 1838 and 1931 more than 370 men and boys died and the Nyoongar still consider Wadjemup as sacred ground because of these deaths.

See also the section about Aboriginal heritage.

Bike tour

One of the best ways to explore the island is by bike, preferably your own. There's an excellent "Rottnest Island Bicycle Guide" available at the information. It describes two tours, the Lakes Bicycle Trail which covers 15 kms and the Cape Vlamingh Trail which covers 29 kms.

I can definitely recommend the latter one because you'll get a fairly good overview of the island. Take some water with you (and a small dish to give some to the Quokkas) and plan most of the day for this tour. There's lots to see!